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Weed Control

Weeds are in the eye of the beholder. A weed is any plant that is growing where you don't want it to grow.  Any plant can be a weed, even if it is also cultivated or has useful properties. No one would say that a maple tree is a weed, but maple seedlings growing in your vegetable garden are just as much a nuisance (or more so) as dandelions in your lawn. (Dandelions, incidentally, make a delicious salad green; if your lawn isn't treated with any chemicals, after you pull them out you can just throw them in the salad spinner  with your other mixed greens.)

Before you start digging up weeds, make sure you have the right equipment. You'll probably want a weeder,  maybe a trowel,  and a hoe.  Don't forget knee pads,  sunscreen,  and a good hat!   

Prevention

The easiest way to deal with weeds is to have as few of them as possible. Read about mulch and follow the external links below for more information on how to ease your weeding chores. In addition to mulch, you can also try corn gluten,  a by-product of the corn industry and a natural plant growth supressant. Don't use it near recently-planted seeds, since it will prevent the growth of all seeds. Also, if you're very picky, be careful about what you throw in the compost bin.  Many compost piles have tomato plants and other anonymous sprouts growing out of them because of discarded seeds. 

Weeding

Despite your best efforts, a few weeds are bound to pop up. It's important to get rid of them as soon as possible, before their roots are too deep and definitely before they go to seed.

A few of your average garden tools plus a few pieces of specialized equipment might be all you need to get rid of pesky invaders. Physical removal and destruction of weeds is almost always the safest choice compared to chemical weed killers. 

There are many kinds of hoes  available; most are suitable for weeding.

Hand tools like this weeder  can help you to pry out weeds with long roots. Look for ball weeders,  which can give you more leverage.

Flame weeders  kill plants by drying them out with a flame held near the plant; you don't set the weed on fire.

Wheel hoes  are similar to tillers and can dispatch weeds quickly and easily.

To make weeding more comfortable, try a set of knee pads.  Make sure you have a good sun hat  and some sunscreen! 

Herbicides

Herbicides should only be used as a last resort. Remember -- an herbicide is designed to destroy plants, so it can also harm the plants you want in your garden along with the weeds. They can also be toxic to animals, including your pets and your kids. Some herbicides can be very dangerous to frogs and other amphibians. Use herbicides in small amounts and with caution.

Any given brand of weed killer may contain one or more herbicides. Read this list on Wikipedia to learn about each ingredient you might see.

There are a number of ways to divide herbicides.

Systemic vs. Contact

  • Systemic herbicides  are taken up either by the roots or by the leaves. They act throughout the plant.
  • Contact herbicides  attack the plant only where they are applied. They may kill the plant by destroying its leaves and therefore its ability to feed itself.
    • Keep in mind that the plant may still grow back, even after the leaves have been destroyed. You may not be able to see the entire plant, and many plants can resprout from just roots. 

Selective vs. Nonselective

  • Selective herbicides  will destroy all of one kind of plant while leaving others intact.
    • For example, some herbicides will only target broadleaf plants; these are used on lawns where grass is the only desired plant.
  • Nonselective herbicides  will indiscriminately destroy all plant life. Use them with care.

Pre-emergent vs. Post-emergent

  • Pre-emergent herbicides  target plants while they are still seeds.
    • Establish a chemical barrier that prevents new plants from developing properly but does not harm established plants.
    • They can still harm some plants, especially if applied too early in the season.
    • Their use has to be carefully timed to occur during the right part of the growth cycle.
  • Post-emergent herbicides  are applied after the plant has developed.
    • All contact herbicides are post-emergents.

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Good to Know

  • While some weeds, like poison ivy, are unpleasant in every respect, many other "weeds" are quite attractive an may even be useful. Dandelions, the scourge of green lawns, are loved by many for their bright yellow flowers and their edible greens. Purslane and lamb's-quarters are also edible, and many other flowering weeds will attract beneficial insects to your garden. Remember, the difference between a weed and a wildflower can be as little as where it is growing!
  • Althought it may be tempting, most weeds should never be composted. Weeds can sometimes grow back even after being pulled. Further, some can go to seed after being pulled, and the seeds may remain dormant and viable in your compost for many years.
  • Additionally, some weeds should not be burnt. The most important of these are poison ivy and poison oak -- the smoke from burning these plants can be very dangerous and even deadly to humans. Don't compost them either -- the urushiol in the leaves (the oil that causes a rash) can remain active for years. The only safe way is to double-bag the plants and throw them away.
  • This guide from Organic Gardening can help you identify some of the most common weeds and deal with them effectively.
  • Before you buy herbicides from Roundup, Ortho, or other Monsanto brands, you might want to read this first. Carefully consider what you want to support with your gardening dollars.

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