Pool Tables

If you have the space, money, and interest, a pool table is a great investment. It's a fun way for the whole family to spend some time together, plus it's entertaining, competitive, and the perfect piece to start off a game room. However, it involves a great deal of time and research to find exactly the right table to fit your budget and playing needs.

Let me start off by saying that there are many Web sites that are dedicated to explaining how to buy pool tables, which are comprehensive, albeit lengthy and sometimes complicated. You can check out the external links below to get an idea of the vast quantity of articles out there. So in light of the wealth of knowledge available out there, this guide will be an attempt to make buying a pool table as simple, concise, and painless as possible.

Pool Table Types

There is more than just one type of pool table out there. Here are the three basic types, and below you will see some unique models that stand out from the rest. Remember that you want the table to blend with your home décor as much as possible.

Outdoor

Indoor tables are not the only choice unless you live in a cold climate. However, those lucky enough to live somewhere warm can take advantage of outdoor pool year round. Not only that, but outdoor pool tables free up indoor space or provide you with space that you thought you didn't have. Indoor/Outdoor tables are also available.

Non-Slate Pool Table

These can look identical to more expensive slate tables, or have a unique design. The major advantage to these tables is their weight and cost since they use permaslate, slatron, or honeycomb in lieu of real slate. For a reasonable amount of money you can have a table installed in your home that will last a few years and provide the novice player with a decent playing surface.

Slate Tables

Traditional slate billiard tables are the most expensive type available. However, they use high quality materials and are built for showing off their classic looks and long lasting durability. Most experienced players will vouch for these being the crème de la crème. The only problem is that they are not very economical.

Murrey Designer 1000 

Art Deco 

Harley Davidson 

Murrey 3000 

Budget

A large part in the decision making process has to do with your budget, especially since this is a large purchase. You have to factor in the initial cost of the table, plus shipping, and installation, not to mention all the extras that you will undoubtedly buy. While there is no real ceiling on how much you can pay for custom tables, there are minimum levels which you should know about.

  • For children who aren't worried about performance or looks, you can spend up to $1000 on a table that will last a couple years. They are easily assembled at home and will not be made with slate. One of the reasons that this type of table is only recommended for children is that it is unlikely for such inexpensive tables to be perfectly adjusted. Any table that's not level will be torture for anyone who knows how to play pool.
  • The economical choice would be one of three things. Get a good quality, used slate table, a well-priced one-piece slate table new (such as this Madison,  Ebony Slate,  or Eliminator ), or get a non-slate table. Every option mentioned here is both affordable (under $1500) and a decent choice for recreational players who are short on cash. Keep in mind that non-slate tables are not meant for serious players looking to develop refined skills since they aren't always good at leveling. Also consider that a table of this price will usually last you about five years or so, non-slate tables even less.
  • The popular choice for people who want a nice looking table that will last and perform well is to get a slate table that costs from $2000 to $3000. Remember that the more you spend, the better quality you will get, and the longer the table will last, especially when you find a table with a lifetime warranty. The table will feature laminate hardwoods, solid three-slate construction, and other details that make this a good choice for all enthusiast pool players who want a great deal on a good piece of craftsmanship.
  • A table for life that blends seamlessly into the home and that resembles the quality of a pro table will cost upwards of $3500. Custom built tables can run even more, possibly up to $10,000. You will see the finest materials and construction quality on these tables, as well as intricate designs and craftsmanship that make these tables stand out from the rest.

Sizing

This is a big purchase -- literally. You need to have the right size space to put a pool table so that you can get the most out of it. Remember that you have to factor in room around the table for shooting with whatever size cues you have, usually a two to three foot space. For an easy to read guide on sizing, check out this chart made by American Super Sports.

Table Size

48" Cue (1)

52" Cue (2)

57" Cue (3) - Standard length

7' x 3.5'

11.5' x 14.5'

12' x 15'

13' x 16'

8' x 4'

12' x 15.5'

12.5' x 16'

13.5' x 17'

9' x 4.5'

12.5' x 16.5'

13' x 17'

14' x 18'

Note that a 7' table is typically what you'll find in a bar, while 8' tables are a nice size for home use and 9' tables are tournament size.

The Details

Now that you have an idea of what you are getting yourself into, you want to know specifically what things you are looking for. Materials, design, construction, and all those little things that make a pool table what it is. Here are the essentials that everyone should know when shopping for a pool table. Know that if you go to a store that specializes in selling tables, you will probably hear a number of pitches. Be very wary in these situations as when shopping online. Manufacturers go through great lengths to cut costs and to the untrained eye, catching these slight imperfections in construction may be near impossible even when staring straight at the table. Online, it's a little harder still, because all you get a brief descriptions of the product. When you can, get all the details before making a purchase so that you can be certain that you are getting what you are paying for.

Materials

  • Non-Slate Tables -- You will hear of permaslate, slatron, and honeycomb, which are used for the surface instead of slate. They are all lightweight and not very durable or solid. That's why non-slate tables won't last very long. They have a high warpage factor, which will be the end of a table. Another material you'll notice listed next to non-slate tables is MDF, or medium density fiberboard. This is used in place of real wood for the rails, side boards, and cabinet.
  • Slate Tables -- Slate is durable, strong, and stable, which is why it is suitable for tournament play. There is less of a chance for the table to be "bumped" or thrown off level. Note that there are two types, both one-piece and three-piece slate tables. One-piece is usually considered difficult to level and less accurate than a three-piece that can be moved and set up easily. And, you guessed it -- three-piece tables cost more than one-piece tables.
    • For three-piece slates, a 1 inch minimum is preferred, but a 3/4" slate is less costly.
    • It should be center backed with solid wood and supported by a center beam.
    • There should also be a two inch thick platform underneath it.
  • Hardwood versus MDF -- For laminated tables, high pressure melamine laminate is best. Likewise, veneered tables should be made of wooden substrate. These types of finishes (scratch, burn, and stain resistant) are the best kind. Lower quality tables will use vinyl and MDF, or medium density fiberboard, respectively. Avoid particleboard and plywood when looking for quality tables.
  • Woods -- Solid hardwood is top of the line, such as oak and maple. Tulipwood and ash, although hardwoods, are as good a quality as the soft woods, such as fir and pine. While they are cheaper, they are not quite as stable or as dense, making them all inferior in quality. Cherry and mahogany are usually expensive options, so if you see a price that seems too good to be true, chances are that the interior is composed of particleboard or that the table is not made of solid wood, but rather is only a cherry or mahogany veneer.
  • Finish -- Oil-based finishes are better than water-based ones.
  • K-66 -- This is a material used for the cushions (the top part of the rail where the ball hits) and it is approved by the BCA for tournaments.

Pockets

There are two types, either drop or roll down. Drop pockets are simple and can add an elegant touch to the table. Roll down pockets send all the pocketed balls to one end of the table, which can be useful for racking. However, there is a tendency for roll down pockets to become jammed, which then can cause problems.

Major Manufacturers

Pool Balls 

Pool Cues

Training Balls 

Cue Racks 

Cue Chalk 

External Links