Gemstones Buying Guide
People have ornamented themselves with gemstones
for thousands of years. For all of our technological advances, we're still pretty hung up on sparkly rocks! Whether you believe that gemstones and crystals
have powerful vibrations that can affect your mind, or you just like the way your amethyst necklace
looks with your favorite jeans, shopping for gemstones is fun for all ages. Men and women alike can appreciate a beautiful and natural creation. Buying gemstones can be a bit overwhelming since there are so many choices and colors out there. Below is a general guide to buying gemstones no matter what you are looking for; keep in mind that various cuts and styles are available in most stones.
"Precious" Stones
Recently the term "semi-precious" has fallen out of favor with geologists. Now, all gemstones are referred to as "precious stones." Traditionally, however, precious stones meant five stones in particular, which are listed below. Today, the abundance of amethyst sets it apart price-wise from the other four.
Colorful Gemstones
Precious stones are not limited to the five featured above--they come in every color of the rainbow! To help you find what you're looking for more easily, stones in this section are grouped by color.
Clear/White Stones
Red/Pink Stones
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Rose Quartz is a pale to transparent pink. |
Strawberry Quartz is translucent Fuchsia to scarlet. |
Jasper is an opaque, rusty red, sometimes streaked with other colors. |
Carnelian is translucent red to reddish orange. |
Garnet is a dark, deep red -- the color of pomegranate juice. |
Yellow/Green Stones
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Yellow Topaz is a light, clear golden yellow, like chicken soup. |
Citrine is a deeper amber-yellow. |
Cat's Eye is a deep green or yellow, sometimes with a striped inclusion. |
Peridot is a light, clear lime green. |
Jade ranges from forest green to aqua, often with white inclusions. |
Blue Stones
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White Opal , although called white, usually appears pale blue with colorful, iridescent inclusions. |
Aquamarine is summer-sky blue. |
Blue Topaz is a slightly deeper blue, like the waters of the Caribbean. |
Turquoise is opaque and comes in various shades of green-blue. |
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Tanzanite is a medium blue-periwinkle shade. |
Iolite is an unusual, clear bluish purple stone. |
Lapis Lazuli is a deep, opaque royal blue with golden flecks. |
Alexandrite is deep blue-purple; the wine-dark sea. |
Brown Stones
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Agate is a translucent banded stone in several colors; blue lace agate is also popular. |
Tiger's Eye is a banded, shimmering golden-brown, like its namesake. |
Tourmaline is translucent and sometimes dichroic; available in a wide variety of colors. |
Smoky Quartz is a clear, leather-dark brown. |
Black Stones
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Hematite is a shiny, almost metallic grey-black. |
Snowflake obsidian is shiny black with white "snowflake" inclusions. |
Onyx is deep black and usually more matte than obsidian; light seems to disappear into it. |
Organic Gemstones
Several of the most popular gemstones are created by plants or animals rather than by the earth alone. These stones are known collectively as organic gemstones
, but this is where the similarities end. Each is formed by a unique process. The most popular organic gemstones are pearls, amber, jet, coral and ammiolite. Fossilized bones or ivory
may also be made into jewelry, along with teeth and claws of various animals, but these are not considered gemstones.One thing all organic gemstones have in common (except for jet, which is relatively hard) is that they are soft, delicate, and easily scratched. You should never put any of these gems into an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner
; use only a damp cloth followed by a dry cloth to clean them. Store them away from anything that might scratch them. Pearls and jet beads should be strung with a knot between each bead; if you wear them often, have them restrung yearly.
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Amber 
Amber is the fossilized resin of a coniferous tree. It is lightweight and usually a honey yellow or golden brown color. You can also find amber in green, blue, white, red and yellow. It can be cloudy or clear; clear pieces often have visible inclusions such as pieces of leaves, flowers, or even insects. The best amber is Baltic amber ; it is between 40 and 60 million years old and is usually of excellent quality. Amber can be easily imitated with glass or plastic. True amber has a negative electric charge and will always feel warm to the touch.Amber is very soft and scratches easily, so take good care of your amber and store it away from other stones. |
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Coral 
Coral used in jewelry is usually red or red-orange, although it can also be black or pink. It is not fossilized; coral is made of the skeletons of thousands of tiny creatures. It is primarily composed of calcium carbonate, the same compound found in pearls. The red color comes from other trace chemicals.Coral has been used in jewelry for thousands of years and is especially valued in India. Most beads are small, since it takes a long time for a coral to grow. Pure red fire coral is the most expensive and the rarest; other types are still fairly pricey since coral is not easy to grow. |
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Jet 
Jet is primarily composed of fossilized, decomposed remains of prehistoric plants. It is coal that has gone to the next level; it is harder and shinier but nowhere close to being a diamond. It has been used in jewelry for over 10,000 years. Jet was especially popular during the late Victorian era, as Queen Victoria adopted it as part of her mourning garb. It was the stone of choice for flapper girls, who wore long strands of jet beads. Although it has declined in popularity, jet jewelry can still be found for sale. Additionally, jet has permanently contributed the phrase "jet-black" to our lexicon, even if most people are not familiar with the source material. |
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Ammolite 
Ammolite is made of fossilized mother-of-pearl from extinct nautilus-like creatures called Ammonites. Its beautiful, opal-like play of colors make it a valuable gemstone for jewelry.Since it was only recently discovered, there is little standardization in grading ammolite; quality is therefore more subjective than with many other gemstones. Good quality ammolite has bright colors and strong iridescence.Ammolite is extremely rare and very difficult to process; even a small amount may be expensive. Ammolite is also very soft and easily damaged; it is frequently prepared with protective coverings and backings. Always protect ammolite jewelry as you would any other organic jewelry; keep it away from anything that might scratch it. |
"The Four Cs"
Just like with diamonds, you're still judging your stones based on color, cut, clarity, and carat.
Cut (and Shape)
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Don't know what shape to get? The same shapes that are used for diamonds can be found in other gemstones as well. Non-diamond gemstones have another shape available to them: the cabochon.A cabochon is a stone that has been polished but not cut. (That is, it doesn't have facets.) Cabochons are frequently domed stones. They often have flat backs set in rings or pendants. Although usually used for opaque stones, a few of the translucent stones, especially members of the quartz family and amber, also look good as cabochons. Star sapphires must be polished as cabochons to make the asterism visible, and amber is often polished to show off any interesting inclusions. |
Color
- Color is another value-inducing factor of a gemstone. It is not the color itself that matters, but the quality of the color, including hue, tone (lightness or darkness), and saturation (purity).
- To accurately judge the hue of a gemstone, look at it in bright light against both black and white backgrounds. You want the gemstone to be even in hue without any cloudiness or brown or gray spots. The center should not look pale or washed out in any way.
- Ideally, a quality gem will be darker rather than lighter, but it should not be darker than medium dark. Sometimes gemstone manufacturers use heat treatment to intensify or change the color of a gemstone. This will decrease its value and cost.
Clarity
- As with diamonds, clarity is measured on a scale of VVS1, VVS2, VS1, VS2, SI1, SI2, I1, I2, I3, with VVS1 being flawless and I3 being badly flawed.
- Spots, cracks, and inclusions (flaws) are all negative factors of clarity.
- Clarity and transparency is often fixed by oils, resins, and chemicals used by gemstone manufacturers.
- Some gemstones are more likely to possess and show flaws than others. Gemstone.org will tell you more about your stone of choice.
Carat
- Most gemstone weights are measured in carats.
- Keep in mind that because of the different densities of different stones, a carat of one might not be the same diameter as a carat of another.
- When comparing many stones, use the length and width or the diameter (depending on the shape) to figure out the size of the stone.
What Else Should I Know?
Natural or Genuine?

- Natural gemstones are considered those that have been taken from the ground and brought to the store cut and polished without undergoing any other alterations.
- Genuine gemstones may have been treated.
- Natural and genuine gemstones are considered to be most valuable.
Synthetic
Two kinds of synthetic gemstones exist. They have been manufactured in labs and claim to hold up longer, however some can cloud prematurely. These are not as valuable as natural or genuine gemstones, but they are an affordable alternative.
- Some are made to look like another stone but do not have the same physical or chemical properties.
- Cubic zirconia and moissanite are diamond look-alikes, but lack diamond's properties.
- Synthetic amber is made of a plastic resin. (But amber isn't all that expensive most of the time anyway.)
- Some jewelry may use colored crystal, glass, or even plastic to imitate gemstones.
- Some are identical in chemical makeup to the stone they imitate.
- Synthetic emeralds, rubies and sapphires are nearly physically and chemically identical to natural stones.
- Synthetic carborundums (the type of mineral including rubies and sapphires) are very common and inexpensive.
- Cultured pearls are not as expensive as natural pearls and are made using oyster colonies in a lab.
- Most citrine is made by treating other forms of quartz.
- Blue topaz is made by irradiating yellow topaz.
Gemstone Jewelry
Now that you REALLY know your gemstones, check out a few of the colorful rings below that make for great pieces of jewelry!
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