Basic Vocab

• Annuals -- plants that last one year and die off in the winter.
• Perennials -- plants that last many seasons.
• Biennials -- plants that take two years to grow from seed, mature, and die.
• Hardiness -- cold tolerance; the lowest temperature your perennials, trees, and shrubs will tolerate.

• Hardiness doesn't really apply to annuals, since they were going to die in the winter anyway.
• Last Frost Date -- average date of the last killing frost in a given area.
• Follow the link and scroll down a bit to see a last frost date map of the US.
• Cool Season Plants -- prefer the cool of spring or fall.
• Warm Season Plants -- flower in the heat of the summer.

In the Zone

• The USDA hardiness zone map is based on average low temperatures in the winter. Zone 1 is the coldest, with an average winter low of -40 degrees Farenheit (the Alaskan interior, for example). Zone 11 is the warmest - Hawaii and the southernmost parts of Texas and Florida where the average winter low is 40 degrees Farenheit.
• Map of the USDA hardiness zones.
• If you want a simpler version, Martha has one on her site.
• How to read zone information: if a plant is "hardy to zone 6" that means it will thrive in areas in zone 6 or warmer.
• You can raise plants that are a zone away from yours with good care and if you move them inside or protect them during the winter.

Other Tips

• Keep a good record of what you plant where using waterproof plant labels and a record book. Seedlings all look pretty much the same!
• Handle seedlings by the leaves.

• This might seem counter-intuitive; shouldn't you handle it by the stem, which seems more sturdy?
• The answer is no; a damaged leaf can be replaced by a new leaf, but if the stem is damaged the plant can easily die.

Most of this advice applies to any kind of seed, regardless of whether it's an annual, perennial, herb or vegetable. Be sure to consult the seed packet for instructions for your particular plant.

Basics

• Annuals are a good choice for the beginner since they usually sprout quickly.
• Check the seed packet for instructions on when to sow the seeds.
• Also pay attention to any special instruction, like whether the seeds need to be scored or soaked before planting.
• Seeds should be sown a seed-width deep; that is, larger seeds are sown deeper than smaller seeds.
• Seeds that require light to germinate should not be covered with soil at all.
• A commercial seed-starting mix is a good idea. It should be moist but not soggy.
• Cover the tray of seeds with a plastic bubble or glass top until the seeds sprout.
• Keep the soil moist at all times, but don't overwater.
• Too much moisture can drown seedlings or cause "damping off," a fungal infection that can kill seedlings.

Lighting

• Keep plants as close to a source of light as possible.
• Seedlings that are too far below a light source will attempt to grow tall as quickly as possible, resulting in "leggy," spindly seedlings.

Fertilizing

• When the seedlings have four or so adult leaves (those first two seed leaves don't count!), you can begin to fertilize them with a half-strength fertilizer solution.

Boot Camp for Plants

• Seedlings started indoors have it easy; there's no wind, the temperature is mild and constant, there aren't any bugs or other nibblers, and they have plenty of light without the sun's intensity.
• If you want those little plants to live outdoors during the summer, they have to be ready -- but you can't just move them outside right away.
• You need to show those seedlings some tough love and "harden them off."
• To harden off seedlings, start with a few hours of outdoor time in a sheltered area. Build up to a full day outdoors in sunny, windy, exposed areas.
• Once the plants are outside for good, you might still want to protect them at night if the nights are cool.
• Cool season plants should be hardened off before warm season ones, of course - but you should have started them earlier as well!

Fertilizer and Amendments

• There are two kinds of fertilizer: organic and inorganic.
• This is a confusing distinction, as organic fertilizers can be inorganic compounds that occur naturally. Inorganic fertilizers are made in a lab.
• Organic fertilizers, like compost, are slower to work, but are less likely to hurt your plants; additionally, the improve the quality of the soil for subsequent years as well.
• Inorganic fertilizers are higher in nutrients than organic fertilizers, but there is a greater risk of over-fertilizing ("burning") your plants.
• Amendments are other things you add to the soil to improve the structure or the pH, like lime or peat moss.
• The most important part of organic fertilization is laying down a good amount of rich compost before you begin planting anything. If you do this well, your plants shouldn't need much for the rest of the growing season.
• Compost tea can be used during the season to give your plants a boost.

What do the numbers mean?

• Most bags of inorganic fertilizer are labeled with a series of three numbers, such as 10-20-10.
• Theses indicate the percentage by weight of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K).
• The amounts of each one depend on what you want to grow.
• Nitrogen promotes generous leaf growth at the expense of flowers and fruits; if you want showy flowers or lots of vegetables, use fertilizers with a low N number.
• Phosphorus promotes blooms as well as strong roots. For plants with a long blooming time you'll want a higher level of phosphorous.

Know your plants.

• Some plants like lots of nutrients; others do better with minimal, if any, fertilizer. Some like a quick liquid meal now and then, while others prefer a slow-release fertilizer all season long.
• This page from Bachman's has some tips about what to feed your plants and general fertilizer information. (Keep in mind Bachman's sells their own fertilizer.)

Seed in the Ground

• Some perennials can be sown directly into the ground, either in the fall for early spring blooms or in the early spring.
• Be sure to read the directions on the seed packet - some seeds need light to sprout and shouldn't be covered.
• Uncovered seeds are bound to attract unwanted attention, so you may want to put some kind of screen over the area until the sprouts have two sets of leaves.

Hardy Self-Reseeding

• These annuals will often reseed themselves and come back in the same area.
• Be sure to stop deadheading them around late summer.

Popular, Easy-to-Grow Annuals

• The list is long! These are only a handful of the most popular - there are many more. Check out the Annuals guide for a more complete list.
• Alyssum,  Annual Poppies,  Bells-of-Ireland,  Calendula,  Cornflower,  Cosmos,  Forget-me-Not,  Geraniums,  Hollyhock,  Impatiens,  Johnny-Jump-Up  (Viola ), Larkspur,  Moss Rose,  Nicotiana  (Flowering Tobacco ), Petunias,  Pot Marigolds,  Snapdragons,  Sunflowers,  Sweet Peas  (pictured), Zinnias. 

Tips on Perennials

• Choose wisely! Some perennials may only be around for five or six years, but some can last as long as fifteen or twenty with good care.
• If you have a space you want to fill in a bit, look for a perennial with attractive foliage - hostas are by far the most popular. There are dozens of varieties available.
• Keep in mind that perennials often need to be cut back either in the fall or in the late winter to prepare for the next growing season.
• When choosing perennials for your garden, aim for three seasons of blooms. You don't need to plan things out month by month. Try to choose about a third spring bloomers, a third summer bloomers, and a third autumn bloomers. Read this site for more info.

Popular, Easy Perennials

• Martha's Favorites
• Yarrow,  Tickseed,  Bearded Iris,  Peonies  (pictured), Black-eyed Susan,  Perennial Sage,  Sedum  (Stonecrop ), Astilbe,  Cranesbills  (Hardy Geranium ), Daylilies,  Phlox,  Bleeding Heart,  Hostas. 
• Other Perennial Favorites
• Hellebores  (Lenten Rose ), Dianthus  (Pinks ), Monkshood  (Aconitum ), Coral Bells,  Butterfly Flower. 
• Check out this website for more Easy Care Perennials.

Buy Good Bulbs

• Buying good bulbs is the single most important part of bulb care.
• Look for bulbs that are heavy for their size, firm and free of deep cuts, fungal infections, and rot.
• Loose wrappers and small nicks are not a problem.
• Good-quality bulbs have already done a lot of the work for you - they have a lot of nutrients stored up to help their flowers grow large and beautiful.
• Be gentle with your bulbs and store them in a cool, dry place away from light until you are ready to plant them.
• Be sure to check out the guide to flower bulbs.

Planting Bulbs

• Plant bulbs at a depth of two to three times their diameter.
• Place them in a hole pointy-side up. If it's difficult to tell which is the correct pointy side, put them sideways; they'll figure it out.
• Bulbs look their best in natural-looking groupings. Don't plant them in rows; instead, aim for clumps or beds of irregularly spaced flowers.
• Try arranging the bulbs around your garden before you start digging so you can work out exactly where everything will go.

Buying Herbs

• When buying herbs, especially for medicinal purposes, make sure to check both the common and scientific names; some herbs go by the same or similar names but are very different.
• Be sure to check out the buying guide for herb seeds.

Planting Herbs

• Don't plant mint or other aggressive herbs (bee balm (pictured), tansy, etc.) directly in the ground; they will attempt to take over your garden and may actually be successful. Keep them in pots; you'll be glad you did.
• Many herbs do well as potted plants. Be sure to give them a little bit of food, good drainage, and plenty of sunlight.
• Pinch your herbs! Pinching encourages branching and lots of growth. The more you use your herbs, the more they will grow.

Using Herbs

• Try eating the flowers! Many herbs, such as cilantro and chives, produce flowers with a milder flavor than the commonly eaten leaves. These can be a tasty and attractive addition to salads and other dishes.
• Use caution and get a really good book if you are going to use herbs medicinally. Some can be dangerous if used incorrectly.
• Some herbs, such as lavender, are used primarily for their fragrance - try making sachets from the dried flowers to perfume your home.
• Pronounce the "h" if you want - the English do, Americans don't, but both are considered correct.

Popular Herbs

• Culinary: Rosemary, sage, parsley, cilantro, basil, thyme, oregano, dill, lemongrass.
• Fragrant: Lavender, sage, bee balm.
• Medicinal: Feverfew, chamomile, hyssop, bee balm, peppermint.

Hot Season, Cool Season

• The cool season is the spring or the early fall, but varies depending on where you live.
• Cool season veggies include peas, lettuces, radishes, plants in the genus Brassica (which includes broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage and turnips), and spinach.
• Cool season veggies can be planted directly into the ground in many cases; check the seed packet for veggie-specific info.
• The hot season is the warmest parts of spring, summer, and early fall.
• Hot season crops include tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, pumpkins, snap beans, squash, and sweet corn.
• If your hot season is not that long, you should start these plants indoors a few weeks before the last frost. Check the seed packet for more specific information.
• Be sure to check out the buying guide for vegetable seeds.

Fertilizer

• If you add some fertilizer during the growing season, avoid a fertilizer with a high nitrogen level for most vegetables.
• Nitrogen promotes leaf growth at the expense of fruit abundance, development and maturation.
• For leafy veggies like lettuces and spinach, nitrogen is just what you want - it will promote lots of leafy growth!