Buying Antique Jewelry

Buying antique jewelry can be fun and rewarding, but it's good to know what to look for so that you aren't hoodwinked into buying a worthless trinket. Buying estate and antique jewelry can sometimes even prove to be the least expensive way to get an excellent piece of valuable jewelry for a good price; antique engagement rings, for example, are one-of-a-kind and usually less expensive than a modern counterpart.

Before diving into the history of jewelry, let's take a minute to distiguish between antique and estate jewelry. Antique jewelry is generally anything from before the 1920s. This includes Georgian, Romantic, Early, Middle and Late Victorian, and Belle Epoque/Arte Nouveau. Estate jewelry has no connotation about age; it is simply jewelry that has been previously owned, and may be antique, retro, vintage, or nearly new. Vintage Jewelry usually refers to jewelry from the 1920s to the 1950s, while retro is usually 1960-1985.

Art periods and time periods are not synonymous, either. Some art periods overlap, while obviously time periods can't overlap. For example, a brooch from 1909 might be art nouveau, arts and crafts, or Edwardian in design.

Time Periods in Jewelry

Georgian Jewelry

Georgian jewelry  dates from the period 1714-1837. This jewelry is very rare and, if in good condition, very valuable. From this time period expect to see a lot of ornate, nature-inspired patterns. You won't see much of this for sale, and anything you do find is likely to be very expensive and very fragile. Be wary of reproductions and take good care of any spectacular finds you might make.

Romantic/Early Victorian

The Romantic  and Early Victorian  periods overlap, but their styles are fairly similar. Overall these two periods range from about 1790 to the 1850s. As with Georgian jewelry, leaves, flowers and other natural elements are a major component of design.  In addition, sentimental pieces such as lockets began to grow in popularity. Soft colors and gold filligree  round out these beautiful designs. Tiffany (1837) and Cartier (1847) both opened their first stores in this time period, ushering in the large "fashion house" model of jewelry retail.

Mid-Victorian

Fashion trends took a sharp turn towards somber after the death of Prince Albert in 1861. Queen Victoria, devastated by her loss, took to wearing mourning jewelry.  Jet,  amethyst,  and garnet  were all popular stones at this time, as were a number of other black materials. Pieces from this period tend to be large in scale but remain subdued. Ornate designs abound; symbolism was a large part of jewelry. One motif you might see is a hand clutching a wreath, bouquet or fan. If "goth" is your style, this is definitely the time period for you. Conversely, new metalworking and gemstone polishing techniques developed in this period allowed jewelers to make beautiful, ornate and colorful new styles. Nature remains a theme, especially roses, forget-me-nots, and violets. Furthermore, the opening of Japan in 1854 to trade with the West led to incorporation of Japanese motifs and styles into jewelry produces in Europe and North America.

Late Victorian/Belle Epoque

Around 1880 jewelry and art styles began to change significantly. Queen Victoria remained in mourning but the rest of the world began to embrace beautiful, colorful, feminine jewelry once again. Between 1880 and the start of World War I, several styles of jewelry rose to prominence. Aesthetic jewelry  (1880-1900) reflected the regal splendor at the height of colonialism; diamonds are abundant, and colorful stones like sapphires, spinel, and periodot abound. Filigree becomes popular and remains in style until the 1930s. Art nouveau  (1890-1914) designs incorporate organic, meandering lines and natural elements. Popular design elements include irises, peacocks, dragonflies, and other natural elements. The arts and crafts movement  (1894-1923) rejected the industrialization of jewelry production and instead favored hand-made, unique pieces. After the death of Queen Victoria, the Edwardian era  bloomed into short-lived opulence. Diamonds, pearls and ornate filigree are hallmakrs of this era.

Art Deco

After World War I, the Art Deco  movement dominated the jewelry world. Influenced by cubism, modernism, African and Japanese art, and "speed" motifs (airplanes and cars having recently come on the scene), art deco uses lots of bold geometric shapes, high-contrast designs, and strong lines. New materials such as Bakelite and celluloid (early plastics) were widley used along with colorful enamel. Flapper girls, along with the newly created royalty of movie stars, set new trends; women wore multiple enamel bangles  and long ropes of jet  or Venetian beads.  Choker necklaces  were popular in this time period as well. Overall the feel of art deco is bright, bold and jazzy.

Vintage/Retro

Jewelry in the 1940s was all about big. Big rocks, big shapes, big jewelry. Hollywood influenced everyone's opinion of glamour, so opulence was the word. Enormous, often synthetic, gemstones were set in cocktail rings  and bracelets.  Aquamarine,  citrine,  and amethyst  were very popular. Fur clips  became popular; many were very ornate and covered in rhinestones and faux pearls. Charm bracelets  began to appear; they skyrocketed in popularity in the 1950s.

Buying Advice

Antique jewelry is unusual in that its value isn't only based on the precious metals and gemstones incorporated into the design. These elements are, of course, important, but even pieces intended as inexpensive trinkets or costume jewelry can have significant value if they are old or interesting enough. For example, Bakelite was an early plastic used to make, among other things, bangle bracelets. Although not expensive when sold, Bakelite has become a popular collectible -- authentic Bakelite sells for much more than the value of the materials.

Buying antique jewelry online can be a risky proposition for a beginner. Before buying a piece, examine all the photographs carefully. If you have questions about the piece, contact the jeweler. Be sure to find out whether the jewelry has been repaired or whether it started out as a different type of ornament. (For example, brooches and pendants can often be interconverted.)

Familiarize yourself with antique jewelry terminology. Some of the jewelry popular a century ago has gone the way of the corset, so you may encounter unfamiliar terminology. Lace pins, for example, were used to hold a lady's shawl in place. The glossary linked below has many terms with which you should be familiar. Also take the time to learn a little about the period that interests you beyond the short discussion here; jewelry can be a big investment and is certainly an expensive collecting hobby, so take the time to make sure you're getting  your money's worth.

External Links

• MorningGloryAntiques.com: A detailed resource for everything you need to know about buying antique costume jewelry.
• PBS.org: Antiques Roadshow tells you how to appraise antique jewelry; good illustrations.
• eBay.com: eBay's guide to buying antique jewelry online; excellent summary of time periods and fashions.
• Kentshire.com: Antique jewelry dealer provides a glossary of terms you will encounter while shopping.
• ForeverJewelers.com: Short article about antique and antique-style engagement rings.
• eHow.com: Helpful tips about the general knowledge you will need to buy antique jewelry.