Pearl Buying Guide
Buying pearls is just as complicated as buying a diamond. There are colors, shapes, sizes, quality levels, and good matches to worry about, not to mention the different lengths of necklaces.
The Nature of Pearls
Pearls are unique among the gemstones in that they are farmed in addition to occurring naturally.
* '''Natural pearls''' are accidents of nature in free-living saltwater oysters. They are rare, difficult to match, and extremely expensive.
* '''Cultured pearls''' are pearls cultivated by inserting a nucleus into a mollusc living in either freshwater or saltwater. Modern farming techniques have made it relatively easy to get many pearls of similar size and color for use in jewelry.
* '''Saltwater pearls''' are any pearls, cultured or natural, from saltwater oysters.
* '''Freshwater pearls''' are any pearls from freshwater molluscs.
* '''Imitation''' (faux, false, simulated, etc.) pearls are made of glass or even plastic; they go by a number of names including "Mallorca," "Red Sea," or "Laguna pearls."
* '''Nacre''' is another name for mother of pearl, the compound secreted by the oyster that forms the pearl.
Types of Pearls
Pearl Shapes
Pearl Price and Quality
The price of a pearl increases sharply as the pearl gets larger, but size is by no means the only factor. Unlike the catchy "4 C's" principle with diamonds, there's no easy way to remember everything that goes into making a great pearl. NLC-Triple S might not be catchy, but here's what it means.
* '''Nacre''' is the compound also known as mother of pearl. Cultured freshwater pearls are solid nacre, while only natural saltwater pearls are entirely nacre. Cultured saltwater pearls have a nucleus and then many layers of nacre; the number of layers and the thickness of those layers are what influence the quality of the pearl. Solid nacre is not necessarily better; freshwater pearls are still inexpensive despite being solid nacre since they are easy to cultivate en masse and are often baroque instead of round.
* '''Luster''': Diamonds may sparkle, but pearls glow. This soft, satiny sheen is luster, and it is a major factor in determining a pearl's worth. Saltwater pearls tend to shine more than freshwater pearls. The longer a pearl remains in the oyster, the more lustrous it will be. A dull, chalky appearance is to be avoided.
* '''Color: '''Pearls come in a wide variety of colors, from bright white to black and everything in between. As with size, the color of a single pearl is not a major determinant of its value; what is more important is that pearls on a piece of jewelry all have a uniform appearance. Watch out for pearls that have been artificially colored; they will not look as nice as their natural counterparts. Color terms you should know include:
** '''Body color''': The main color of the pearl (white, pink, black, etc.).
** '''Overtones''': Washes of color that augment the body color. For example, a pearl may be white with gold or rose overtones.
** '''Orient''': The iridescence oft he pearl. This is influenced by the number and thickness of the layers of nacre; a large number of very thin layers will produce the loveliest pearls.
* '''Surface: '''Since pearls are formed by a biological process, they have a great deal of variability. Unlike a diamond, which is rate on its inclusions, a pearl is rated for the smoothness of its surface. The more blemish-free the outside of the pearl, the more valuable it is. Small blemishes, such as a spot or bubble, are not as serious as structural faults like chips or cracks.
* '''Shape: '''Shape is not as important asother characteristics, although round or near-round pearls are generally the most desirable. Shape matching is more important.
* '''Size: '''Pearl price and value goes up almost exponentially with the size of the pearl. All other factors being equal, a very large pearl will cost far more than a small pearl.
Pearls can also be graded on one of two scales. It is important to know which scale you are using before making a decision, since an A means different things in each system. To read more about the details and how grades are assigned, check out
Wearing Pearls
After nearly 5,000 years of popularity, pearls are still growing strong. Modern culture techniques have made them affordable to more than just royalty. A matched set of pearl earrings, necklace and bracelet are considered the quintessentially ladylike jewelry, but there are a number of other customs associtated with pearls.
Pearls have been popular for so long that pearl strands of different lengths have different names and degrees of formality.
Other Kinds of "Pearls"
Caring for Pearls
Pearls are extremely soft for a gemstone; calcium carbonate, the primary inorganic compound in nacre, only rates a 3 on the Mohs hardness scale. Pearls are also porous, due to their protein-mineral matrix. Because of this, they need to be cared for carefully to keep them in good condition.
* Wipe down your pearls with a soft cloth after each wearing.
* Wash your pearls only with mild soap and water. Never use harsh chemicals, abrasives, or an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner.
* If you wear your pearls often, take them to be restrung each year. (Less frequent wear requires stringing every two or three years.) Make sure there is a knot on each side of each pearl so that if the strand breaks you will not lose all your pearls. The jeweler should use silk or nylon thread.
* Store your pearls away from other jewelry. Metal and stones can scratch and mar your pearls. Wrap them in a soft cloth and keep them in a protected case.
* If you have jewelry made from conch, melo melo, or abalone pearls, keep them away from sunlight. They have been known to lose their colors when exposed to the sun, so only wear them at night.
* Pearl rings can be a beautiful way to show off a unique pearl, but be very careful when wearing a pearl ring as they can be damaged easily. The same goes for a pearl bracelet be careful not to bang it on any surfaces. Pearls are much safer when they are around your neck or attached to your ears.
